Sewing machine



Jan. 23,

1945. c. W. JOHNSON 2,368,066

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 12. 1959 8 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR CARL W. JOHNSON .Han.23, 1945. A C. w. JOHNSON A i 2,368,065

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. l2, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. CARL W. JOHNSON BY ,fl l f Jan. 23, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON 2,358,066

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 12, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Jan. 23, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON 2,358,066

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. 12, 19:59 8 sheets-sheet 4 INVENTOR CARL W. JOHNSON ATTOR N EY jan. 23, 1945. c. w. JoHNsoN 2,368,066

SEWING-MACHINE Filed Aug. l2, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 6l INVENTOR L CARI.' w. JoHNsoN BY l Ahoi-miv Jan 23, 1945. c. w. .JOHNSON 2,368,066

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. l2, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 FICIB 2? V156 YVWTY( in?? "JL /78/ N; M- Vin FIG. I4 T 2,77 272 27225 256 f 246 INVENTOR CARL W. JOHNSON BY MKM;

ATTORN EY Jan. 23, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON 2,368,066

SEWING MACHINE Filed Aug. l2, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 FIG. la Flew w 326 25 522 2J 520110 /fa 533 1 75 je@ 141? 14a lNvENoR CARL w. JOHNSON ATTORNEY Patented'Jan. 23, 1945 il all ED STATES assauts- SEWING MACHINE Carli W. Johnson; Brooklyn', Y.,v assigner to' Anieriean Machine1 & Fc'mndiyY Company', arcorA poration of! New; Jersey Appncatomiugnsf 12, 193e', seriallN'o. 289.3017;

(01.'v 11a-171s) This invention relates to sewing machinesjandf more particularly toa sewing machine of the under and over stitch type,v utilizing.4 a double.

pointed needle having an eye located betweenthepoints, andy wherein the opposite ends of the needle are grasped alternately by the jaws of opposedneedle b ars in order toproject the-needle and thread through the work to formstitches. l

yA machine of thisl type has a wideI variety ofI usesinthe manufacture of gloves, novelty collars, handkerchiefs,v other apparel, etc. It` will.y be seen, therefore, that it is; important in: sewwork willl be unsatisfactory and unsa-lable. ItY is,. therefore, an objectof` my invention topravide means: for properly tensioning the threadsor that all danger of excess tension*A and under` tension. of the threadiseliminated. K It is also an object of my invention to elimifnate substantially all possibility of fouling-frayf ing. or splitting the thread bythe needle asyitL moves through the worhv and toI provide improved means for substantially eliminating the.I

breakage'of needles.

Itis a further objectofthis, invention to pro,- vide a sewing machine of. the under an'dbver stitchtype', which-is-capable ofv sewing all kinds of materials without the necessity of'. usingl anyauxiliary mechanism or device in conjunction therewith for successful and satisfactory operation.

It is a further object of this invent-ionto preventfouling of the threadV both. above and be,- lovv the work and. by. providing. mechanism. for

moving. the thread out. of tl'leloatlrofthe needle-- and. to prevent unnecessary stretching.l orpulling of the thread during the operation of the ma.-

chine.

lnnorder to meet all of the demands. which may which` makes it possibley to change thefleng-th. of the stitch `froml timeI to. timey whenever" neces-- saryrThis mechanism may operate 'automatically er be adjusted manuallyA toI change the?` length off the; stitch Whenever desired;

It is a-f`urther object ot the invention to. prov-A` vide means` for clamping the threat at the proper time to;v deposit it inv correct' lrelationslii'pi with the needlef and the work, and to, provide means for tensioning the threadf and forVv moving itout ofthe pathgof they needle and eliminate ing any danger of fouling the needle.

lIt is also an. object ot this invention to; provide means operating, in.l tinrieol'y relation. with the lie-A ciproca.ting needle for throwing the thread',oit'of the` lpathof the. needle.- on boftl" sides ofA tlie Work and on the. up and. down stroke" of the needle...

invention` isj iiurfthei' characterized by the provision of. a colopferatiiigvvi hf thethread" pulling mechanism about which the tliiiead i`s disposed- :bya. thread-Y puller dur-ing the opera'- tion of the needle andmeans, such as a flexible. belt encircling; the vdrum, for loosely holding the threadloh the drum while,- at theV sarifi'ef time allowing they threadpullerv tof move. therebeiiath and. posit-ion. the loose endl off the thread` about' the drum. Y l

The inveritionl alsoY consists in the provision 0i thread hol'dg'm'nsf C'a'dtiig thl die oriY one ofv its'sti'ok'e's forlioldiiigthethrad to prevent. excess tensiori 'from being" applied" to the work' during operation of the threadpullen, and. auxiliary- Iraiis'ah'tiigf coniine'- tion therewithl for holding tlethadwh' Said be imposedA uponmymachine in sewing, all of for another, etc.. further consists the provision of-4 mechanism means release the thread andrtlieneedle is re"- ciprocatedfin an1 opposite direction;v

The invention also consists in the provision. of means for holding the thread difinglfthe' operation of. the thread.v puller, andv auiliary holding means acting in conjunction therewith. which holdV thenthread teiisioned after ity isV releasedA by the iirstl means.l and move it upwardly with the needle and;r then displace itlaterallyout` of4 the. path of, the needleand thread pullerl My invention. ist further` charaterizedA b'yf the provision of means for` minimizing movemeh'tof A principal object of my invention is to provide gripping means for holding the thread in order to prevent excess tension from being applied thereto during the pulling operation which would result in the formation of over-tight stitches.

An additional object is to provide means for disposing the thread laterally to prevent the thread puller from pulling more than a single loop of thread. This provision is made because of the fact that in a machine of this type where thread is disposed about a drum and the loop end is being pulled through the work, there is a tendency for the thread puller to engage with more than the one desired loop so that in the absence of means mentioned above, two or more loops of thread might be engaged by the puller and excess tension be applied to the work or the thread broken or fouled.

A further object of the invention is to provide a short thread sewing machine with a double pointed needle with means for laterally disposing the thread, and means acting in conjunction therewith for transferring the thread with a movement concurrent with that of the needle so that the resulting stitch will have the exact amount of tension desired and neither more nor less.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which Will be hereinafter fully described, and then specifically set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification, and wherein the several reference characters designate the same or like elements:

Figure 1 is a front elevation of the sewing machine Figure 2 is a partial side view of the same;

Figure 3 is an enlarged detail view showing the needle bars and material feeding mechanism;

Figure 4 is an enlarged end view of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a detail View taken on line 5--5 of Figure 3 of the feeding mechanism and discloses means for adjusting the feed to lengthen or shorten the stitches;

Figure 6 is a partial plan view showing the thread guiding mechanism;

Figure '7 is an end view of the same taken on line 'l-'I of Figure 6;

Figures 8, 9 and 10 are detail views to illustrate the manner in which the machine operates in sewing the work;

Figures 11, 12 and 13 are sectional views of Figures 8, 9 and 10 taken on line II-I I, I2-I2 and I 3-I 3, respectively;

Figures 14, and 15 are detail views of a portion of the thread guiding mechanism shown in Figure 7, in dilferent working positions;

Figure 16 is a side elevation of a modied device for adjusting the length of the stitch;

Figure 17 is a side elevation o f another modication for adjusting the length of the stitch in which it is possible to produce alternate short and long stitches; and

Figure 18 is an end view of Figure 17.

Referring to the drawings, Figures 1 and 2 show a preferred embodiment of my improved sewing machine comprising a stationary frame I0, a sewing machine head I I extending therefrom, and a bracket I2 supporting the sewing machine table I3. A motor I4, which is suspended from arms I5 supported by a bracket I6, attached to frame I0, is provided with a pulley Il driving a belt I8 running over a pulley I9 integral with a clutch 2D (Figure 2) adapted to receive its coacting clutch member 2I. This clutch mechanism, which may be of the conventional cone type, when its parts are in driving relation, cause a pulley 22 which may be a part of member 2|, to drive a belt 23 tracking a pulley 24 loosely mounted on stationary shaft 25, supported in a bearing in lug 26 and by the end wall 21.

Clutch member 2I is constructed and arranged to engage member 2 by means of a foot treadle 28 (Figure 1) which in being depressed actuates a rod 29 connected to an arm 30 to shift the member 2l into engagement with member 20. Arm 3D, it will be observed, is mounted on shaft 3I supported by a housing 32 (Figure 2). In order to overcome some of the inertia of the machine and bring its movement to as quick a stop as possible, I have provided brake mechanism for that purpose. The movement of shaft 3l permits its shifter arm 33, in engagement with a collar 34, integral with a brake drum 35 mounted on shaft 36, to withdraw from the stationary brake member 31. Therefore, whenever treadle 28 is depressed and clutch members 20-2I are moved into operative engagement against the tension of a spring 39 stretched between post 40 and one end of arm 30, brake member- 35 is separated from active engagement with stationary brake member 31 and, consequently, shaft 36 rotates and drives the pulley 24. Bracket 38 attached to housing 32 supports the clutch shaft 36 and also serves as a support for braking surface member 3l. Whenever the operators foot is removed from the treadle, spring 39 tends to disengage clutch members 20-2I and thereby interrupts the drive of pulley 34 and shaft 36, which permits the pulley I9 to idle in neutral position. At this time the operator may turn the machine over manually by rotating hand wheel 4I. If' it is desired to lock the machine against movement, the operator can depress foot treadle 28 in a clockwise motion, which causes brake member 35 to move into engagement with braking surface 3l and thereby prevent forward rotation of the Ilv wheel 4I.

If desired, means may be furnished for allowing the brake to be applied at any desired time after the disconnection of clutch members 20-2 I. In some instances, however, especially in sewing material such as gloves, where it is necessary to move the work around considerably in order to position stitches properly, it has been foundy desirable to retain the needle in work engaging position for a portion of the cycle so that it may act as a center about which the work is moved. In this manner, the presser foot can be lifted and the work shifted as desired, without disturbing the operative relationship of the needle and the work. One form of mechanism suitable for effecting this purpose has been shown in Figures 2 and 4. This mechanism consists of a connecting rod 280 pivotally joined to lever arm 30 at one end andxed atits` other endI to a belli` crank leverA 2M mounted on a stud 235` carriedlby: af. bracket.

2861suitably secured to the-machine frame. Lever- 28lf| is provided withl a cam follower 282 arranged to track a cam surface 283 off a cam'` 281|s The cam surface 233 is so designed-that in.the=normal` operation of the machine it will prevent braking surfaces and 31 from movement into en-v gagement until the caml follower 232 runs on the low portion of the cam surface 283, where-A upon the needle willI be positioned inthek Workl and the brake can be moved. intooperative engagement with thev surface 31 to stop the mar chine.

The pulley 2li' is integral. withv a hand wheell 41| providing means for manually turning over the machine. Shaft 25 is also equipped:v with a sprocket 42, a looper cam .43, a gear 4113 and a cani` 45, these members beingv bolted together asJ a unit and revolving with pulley 24.

The cam l5 (Figures 34 and 4) is provided with a cam track d5 engaging cam followers 41--41 positioned at diametricallyy opposite points of the cam, these followers being carried by slidesl 48;-48 guided` by gibs 49-49 bolted to the end wall 21 of the head Each of' the slides isY provided with a lug 50 carrying alink 5| connectedto the rear ends of their respective oscilla-ting arms 52k and 53. Each of the arms 52 andr ismounted on an intermediate pivot stud 5`4f projecting from the head An upper needle bar 55 and a lower needle bar 56, arranged in alignment, are provided with actuatorarms 5-1- mounted upon a pivot stud 58 carried by a link 59V connected to their respective arms` holder 69 secured to the lower portion of head' Adouble pointed needle 1U is provided', that is, one having a point at each. end4 and a thread receiving eye located at about mid-length of the needle between the points. Each of the needle bars is equipped with tapered caps 12 serving to confine spring pressed jaws, which may be of the type shown in the above referred to patent, which clutch the needle to perform the stitching. It will be understood by those skilled.

in the art that in this type of machine the needle 1i) is projected back and forth throughthe, work and is, therefore, alternately grasped byA the jaws of each needle bar. Briefly the action is such that as the oscillating arm 52 carries the needle bar 55 inwardly toward the work, the head 13 of the needle bar will abut the upper lug 83* and effect the release of the needle from theV upper needle bar, the needle being grasped by the lower bar in the same manner as the upper bar. The upper needle bar, upon receiving the needle from the lower needle-bar, starts to rise. and' elevates the head 13 from engagement with.

the lug 63. At the moment this occurs the spring pressed jaws clutch the needle-by reason ofthe spring action inthe needle bar 55, and the movement of the-Jaws into the tapered" cap The needle barsl 1.21 Erom the aforesaid, it. will be understood whenever the head 1113r` is not in: engagement with thef lug 63 the spring action inthe needle bar will? force thevv gripping jaws into the taperedv cap.

12', and' cause such jaws to grasp the needle.

The spring action of the lower needle. bar acts alternately therewith in the same manner.

A presser foot` 15e. is provided to engage and retain the work in position during the sewingy operation. This foot is secured to a. holder. 1.6. clampedtothe lower end' of a spring tensioned rod111-which is` guided in the lugs 63 and. 54 of member B51. The rod 11 is provided with a block 1-8 fittingin thespace between the rear wall of member 65 and a strap 191 secured to a. portion of member 65' (and iny this manner tends to retain thex presser foot'in alignment with the needlebars. The upper end of the rod 1.1i is providedwitha collar 8B normally abutting: a forked block 81|- fastened to one end ofy a pivot shaft 82. One end: of shaft 82 is mounted on a projecting lug 83 of*V member 631 andl hasits other endf mounted inan extending lug 84' of abracket 85 secureditothe-wall 21fI of head il. At a point along the length of shaft 32. is mounted an actuatorarm 86 carrying a stud supporting a head 81A whichholds one end of a rod BBI connecting to al link;V 89 (Figure 1') pivotedv at 95; A- manually'operated" plate 9|, adjustably mounted on a rod 92- whenmoved inthe direction indicated by the arrow, turns a stud '93 causing an arm 94, iixed thereto, to descend, and trip the rear end of link 85 whereby its opposite end is caused to rise;V and through itsv connections turns shaft 82and' block 8| thuslifting collar 853', rod 11- and consequentlyk the presser foot 15; By lifting the presser foot the operator may readily inspect the-work` orlocatenew'work in sewing position.

When the upper needle bar 55 ascends, causing. the needle to pull the thread through. the work; the sudden thrust or piercing tends toV overcome the springy pressure of rod 11 and lifts the presser foot 15 fron/r'` thework. It is desirable tohave the spring'95 of rod'11weak enough toallowfthe presser foot to yieldin order to allow the4 work to' be'readily-manipulated; prevent undue pressurev on the work, and to overcome any excess movement thereof. A' springY actuated arm. 55 may be provided, which is'in close relation, withA theA upper end of rod 11i so that the rod in moving upward will strikethe end of the arm S6; and be forced back, thereby tending to maintain the presser foot 15 in its normal position. Arm 9 6' is mounted on a. pivot stud 51 carried by a bar 98 suspended. from head A spring, 9B. having one end anchored to a post Hl in head and its other end attached to arm S5 acts. normally to hold an adjusting screw k|Il| inabutmentwith a stop |02. The screw |0| is provided'so that the gap between rod 11 and arm 95, may be, varied to best suit conditions and when properly set the screw is locked in position by any suitable means, such as a knurled' equippedwith a roller I |21 engaging anelongated slot ||'3 provided' in the lower end of" lever |121" fulcrumed on arm H5 which is mounted on the end of a pivot stud I |6 secured to frame |0 by a bolt H1. Lever H4 mounts a stud H8 carrying a follower H9 engaging a slot |20 in the head of a slotted member |2I movably mounted in a counterbored portion |22 of plug |23 turnably supported in an aperture of frame l0.

By loosening the thumb screw |26, arm |24 may be moved, a-nd in so doing shift the position of slot in member |2|, thereby changing the angular relation of slot |20 and lever H4. It will be apparent, therefore, that the more slot |20 is turned towards the vertical, the greater will be the feeding motion of plate |35 due to the fact that lever H4, which is pivoted upon lever H5, will be raised a greater amount; lever H5 also will be rocked a proportionately greater amount. If it be desired to decrease the movement of plate |35, the slotted member |2| will be adjusted in the opposite direction so that the slot therein will be moved more towards the horizontal. Since lever |5 is fastened to a fork |21 connected to a material feed arm |28., the resulting to and fro motion imparted to arm |28 can be varied, thereby making it possible to adjust the length and make longer or shorter stitches as required. The up and down movement of arm |28 is imparted by a cam l0 with which coacts a cam follower |29 provided on an arm lever |30 loosely mounted on stud |2|a. arm |3| of lever |30'is connected to one end of -an adjustable link |32 in turn connected to a depending arm |33 of member |28.

Material feed plate |35, attached to arm I 28, is provided with a corrugated or toothed work feeding surface adapted to engage and advance the work. This plate may be of the usual type employed in sewing machines and is arranged to project upwardly through a slot in plate |3 over 4which the work is fed to and from the needle. As each stitch is completed, the arm |28 through its connections, is caused to index, that is, the arm descends slightly below the level of throat plate |3 leaving the work resting thereon and then the arm moves up, engages and advances the work in readiness for the next stitch, the work remaining in this position while the plate |35 returns to its original position.

The right end of arm |23 (Figure 3) is mounted on a pivot stud supported in lugs |4| of l an arm |42 loosely mounted on stud |34. One end of this stud fits into an aperture in a spacing block |43 (Figure e) secured to frame I0 by a bolt |44, the opposite end of the stud being provided with a collar |45 tending to retain the arm |42 in position,

Referring to Figures 3 and 4, the looper cam 43 engages a cam follower |66 mounted on a stud |41 carried by an arm |48 secured on a cross shaft |49. The shaft |49, which at one end is supported in a hub of support 65, and its other end in a bracket 85 attached to wall 21, is provided with an arm |5| carrying a tension spring |52 connected to an arm |53 mounted on a stud |54 secured in a lug |55 of member Il, this spring tending to keep the cam follower |49 in engagement with cam 43.

A looper |56 attached near the free end of shaft |49 (Figure 4) at its lowerend is provided with a pointed linger |51 and a thread guide roller |58 which together with a tension finger |59 act to properly tension the thread and control its movement with respect to the needle and work. The looper or tensioning member |56 has a return or relieving motion as the needle goes down in the material in order to supply the necessary slack in the thread T. If this slack were not supplied then the eye of the needle would be pulling off the needed amount of thread, which would result in Very severe treatments of the thread and needle.

Finger 59 is secured to an arm |60 loosely mounted on shaft |49y and placed adjacent each end of the hub of arm |60 are fiber washers |6||6| which serve to maintain frictional contact with looper arm |59, with the cooperation of a compression spring |62 positioned between and bearing against a fixed collar |63 and a collar |64 loosely mounted on the shaft |49. The nger |59 is normally held inoperative by means of an extension of the upper actuator arm 51, as seen in Figure 3. its movement being controlled by the travel of the upper needle bar 55. As the upper needle bar and the actuator arm ascend, the extension |55 abutting the tapered portion |66 of finger |59 moves upwardly out of engagement therewith and thereby permits the finger to move inwardly adjacent the neede 10. Finger |59 is moved inwardly by a spring actuated plunger |61, situated in the base of support 65, which plunger may be equipped with lock-nuts, resting against an open end slot |69 at the tail end of arm |60 for adjusting the limits of inward movement of plunger |61. The amount of travel of finger |159 inwardly is governed by a stop screw |10, located at the lower end of arm |60, which when it abuts the base of member 55 arrests further movement of the arm and linger. As finger |59 moves inwardly, it engages the thread along one side of the needle and moves it out of the path of the needle in order to prevent the latter from splitting it as the needle moves downwardly into stitching p0- sition. Finger |59 also assists in feeding the thread and imparting the correct amount of tension thereto. This is effected by the gentle pulling action of the finger on the thread, which finger .kinks the thread adjacent the needle and thereby also prevents undue sliding movement of the thread through the needle in a sewing movement. In this manner the thread making stitches are applied under proper tension to the work. Means described hereinafter are also provided for performing similar functions on the underside of the work.

Referring to Figures 3, 4 and 8, the mechanism for pulling the loop as formed from the thread will new be described. A gear |15 meshing with the gear 44, but rotating at a greater speed, is fixed to a shaft |18 mounted in suitable bearings |11 of head H and of a stationary member or drum |10 which is supported by head H and a rod |19 extending from frame l0. A gear |80 mounted on the opposite end of shaft |16 meshes with a gear |8| mounted on a shaft |82 supported on frame I0 and a hearing of drum |18. The opposite end of shaft |82 is equipped with a gear |83 in mesh with a ring gear |84 rotatilr upon a stationary disk |35 secured to drum In order to pull the loose end of the thread through the work, a thread puller |86 provided with a pointed thread-engaging end is mounted so that it may rotate around the periphery of the stationary drum member |10. The chief function of the thread puller is to engage the loop of thread formed on alternate movements of the needle and pull the thread through the work, and dispose it about the periphery of the drum in such a manner that the danger of snarling, fouling or breaking the thread is practically eliminated. Reference to Figures 1, l3, 8, 9 and 10 shows that the thread puller |86 is .xed to the outer end of a carrier arm |81, which is pivotally mounted on a stud |88 fixed at the axis of the drum member |13. In order to operate arm |81 and its thread puller |865, a roller |89 vis mounted so that it may travel vin a longitudinal runway |90 formed Ain saidarm (Figure ,3). The roller is mounted upon a pivot stud |9| extending from one side of the ring .gear |84. The .rotation of ring gear |84, therefore, drives the thread puller |99 in its circular path about the periphery of drum |18 because of the rotation vor" arm .|81 around pvot |98. Runway |99 is formed by a pair of bars |92 attached to and `spaced properly by a portion of arm |81. The outer -end of arm |91 is also provided with a curved guide plate |93l adapted to engage a tape |94 partly circling the drum |18, which tape acts to maintain the thread in orderly fashion and also prevents whipping of the thread as it is placed around the ldrum in a manner to be described hereinafter.

The provision of ra slid'able connection between the ring gear |84 and the .arm |31 enables the thread puller to move rapidly at the time it first engages the loop of thread for pulling loose portions thereof out of the work, and then as it continues its angular movement it moves slower and slower until it reaches approximately the ninel oclock position (see Figure 3) or about 210 from the point where it `pulls the thread at its fastest rate "of speed. From that point onthe puller gains speed as it returns to pull the thread back through the Work again. thread is always rapidly pulled through the work out of the way of the needle and there is no possibility for the needle bar engaging with the puller. A brush S may be xed beneath the drum |98, as shown in Figures 3, 10 and 1'3, in order to act as a brake and apply a frictional force upon the thread as it is being pulled from lthe drum. This adds additional control in handling the thread and prevents it from Whipping about or tangling 'in any manner.

Tape '|94 (Figures 1, 3, 8 and '19) is led around a roller |95, supported by an upright |96 extending from .a ange 91 of 'a second vstationary drum |98 and its end is clamped between plates |99` of a yieldable stud 29|) supported in member |2. The other end of tape |94 is led around a roller 29|, supported by an upright Y2|)2 extending from flange 91, and its end is clamped by plates 203 supporting a tension spring 294 connected to an arm .295 secured to ange |91, the spring serving to apply the proper tension to tape |94.

Referring to Figure 4, the gear |8| in turning shaft |82 imparts motion to a ,gear l2|0 in mesh with a gear 2l |v integral with a cam 2|?. loosely mounted on shaft |15. The ratio of gears |89 and |81 is such thai-,shaft |16 vmakes two revolutions for each revolution of shaft |32, whereby lthe cam 2|3 on shaft |82 andthe cam '2|2 and a cam 2M integral with cam 2| 2 will rotate at one-half `the speed of members fixed on shaft |15. The cam 2|3 (Figures 4 and '7) engages a cam follower 2|5 on an eccentric stud 2|6 of a cam lever 2|1 mounted on a pivot stud 2`t8 secured in head H. ports a spring -2119 vconnected to a post 22|) carried :by a frame i0, which spring acts normally to .hold the follower 245 in engagement with cam 213. The upper end of Ilever 2|1 (see Figures 6 and 7) is provided with van open end slot .22|

In 'this manner the The tail end of lever 2|1 supadapted to engage a pin 222 of a block 223 sliding in a runway 224 of a bracket 225 secured to head The block 223 is provided with cam tracks 226 and 221 engaging cam follower 228 carried by arms 229 and 230 mounted on pivot studs 23| and 232, respectively, extending from the base of bracket; 225.

The movement of block 223 in one direction causes the cam tracks 226, 221 through cam followers 228 to swing their respective arms 229 and 239 closing aroundthe needle 1|) and grip the thread. The arms retain this position and hold the loop of thread straight while the thread puller |85 engages the loose end of the thread and advances a considerable distance around the periphery of the drum. The block 223 in moving in the opposite direction reopens the arms and permits the lower needle bar to pass upward. When the arms 229 and 230 are in their gripping position, the eccentric stud 2 5 of cam lever 2 1, is adjusted so as to be clear of the cam track, thus assuring a' tight grip of the thread. It will be seen that arms 229 and 239 when gripping the thread hold that portion which may be called'the xed end of the thread with respect to the work (see Figures 8 and 10) In this manner the amount of tension on the stitch just made is minimized or so limited that the thread cannot be broken by the action of the puller, nor can it be tensioned in the work or pulled out of the work by the action of the puller.

The bracket 225 is provided with an extending lug 233 (Figures 4, 6 and 7) supporting a loosely mounted stud 234 which at its loWer end has xed thereto a bell cank lever 235, said lever being actuated by a cam 236 (Figure 4) fixed on shaft '|19. Cam 236 actuates a cam follower 231 of a cam lever 238 mounted on a pivot 239 carried by a bracket 249 attached to frame Il). The upper end of lever 23B .supports one end of a link 24| connected to bell crank lever 235 whereby motion is imparted to a hooked tension nger 242 clamped in o-r integral with a lblock 243 which is secured to the stud 234. Once during each cycle of cam 235, the follower 231 is forced inward by a spring 244 to engage the depressed portion 245 of the cam whereby the finger 242 is caused tol move in the direction ofthe arrow (Figure 6) and tension the thread. Finger 242 also guides the thread out of the path of the traveling needle. A spring 246 is .connected at one end to the lever 235 and at its other end is attached to an adjustable screw 241 (Figure 3) turnably mounted in frame l2, thereby providing means for tensioning the finger 242. Finger 242, therefore, is actually responsible for tensioning and throwing the thread out of fouling position with respect to the needle on the up stroke thereof, and for throwing the thread out of fouling position on the down stroke of the needle.

The bracket 225 supports a, thread guide 298 and a pivot stud .249. The stud 249 supports a .swingable thread clamp member 259 which terminates in an arm 25|. A cover 252 has the same general contour as member 25|), with the exception of the arm portion which is secured tothe `former by screws 253. Member 250 is provided with a track 254 in which is mounted a slidable thread .gripper 255 having at an upper end, a hook portion 255 adapted to engage the thread and advance it toward the rounded extending portion 251 of member .259 which coacts therewith to clamp the thread. Member 25s is moved in and out eby means of a lcam actuated lever-'258 which engages the rounded tail portion 259 of member 255. Lever 258 is pivoted Ion a stud 260, supported in member 225 and its lower end is equipped with a cam follower 26| engaging in a cam track 262 of cam 2|4. 'I'he engagement of lever 258 with the rounded portion 259 is maintained by a tension spring 263 spanned between a post 264 in the cover 252 and a post 265 in the sliding member 255.

'Ihe up and down movement of members 258, 252 and 255 is effected by means of a cam actuated link 266 mounted lon a stud 261, in arm and connected to a cam lever 268 pivoted on a stud 269 supported by head Lever 268 derives motion from cam 2|2 having a cam track 210 engaging a cam follower 21|.

The operation involved in stitching the work will now be described brieiiy; with the needle 10 grasped by the lower needle bar 56 (Figure 8) the needle bar descends its full stroke, then ascends slightly and dwells, the slight upward motion forming a =loop L in the thread T. At this time the arms 229 and 230 close around the needle 10, grip the thread, and prevent unnecessary pulling of the stitch as the thread puller |86 enters loop L and starts to pull the free end F of the thread through the work. The free end F of the thread is guided into a thread trap 212 of member 248 as it comes out of the opening 213 formed by the stationary drums |18 and |98 as shown in Figure 11. As the thread puller |86 moves continuously it pulls the free end of the thread from the work and this loose portion B is laid by the puller upon the periphery of the drum |98 as the puller moves in a clockwise direction as seen in Figure 9. It will be observed that puller |86 moves beneath tape |94 for the greater part of its travel and hence the thread cannot be thrown away from the drum or become tangled in any manner, With the puller |86 n this latter position the thread is wound partly around a groove 214 in the puller formed at an angle therewith as seen in Figure 12, whereby one thread A is caused to be guided onto a shelf 215 of drum |18 and the other loop of the thread B is led into a groove 216 provided in the periphery of drum |98 and the free end F is in the opening 213. As

vthe thread puller |86 (Figure 9) engages the brackets 225 between the open jaws of auxiliary l giippers 255, 251 and onto the shelf portion 215 of the drum (Figures 1l, 12 and 13). When the thread has been So positioned with respect to gripper jaws 255, 251 and as the jaws 229 and 230 open, the thread is gripped by the auxiliary gripper and the lower needle bar 56 ascends, whereupon the needle 10 is projected through the work, which has in the meantime been advanced one stitch length by material feed |35 and the needle is then grasped by the upper needle bar 55. It will be seen, therefore, that during the pulling of the thread the fixed portion thereof is always clamped either by the grippers 229, 239 or by auxiliary grippers 253, 251 and excess tensioning of the thread is prevented. The gripper mechanism 250-252 rises in unison with the lower needle bar and holds the thread Somewhat taut. In ascending, the gripper carries the thread over the guide 211 and positions it in trap 212 between jaws 212a and 212D, as seen in Figure 15. At the time the thread is .advanced by the hook 256 towards portion 251 the thread A (Figure 12) is moved from the shelf 215 and positioned as shown in Figure 13, in a cut back portion of the shelf which holds the thread on the drum against removal. The gripper in swinging upward moves thread A to a position F (Figure 13) and when the gripper opens the thread will become lodged in trap 212. In this manner the thread is disposed beyond the range of operation of thread puller |86. Hence the danger of pulling more than one loop of thread around the d1un |98, and possible fouling of the machine, is practically eliminated. Shortly before transferring the needle to the upper needle bar, the tension finger 242 moves in the direction of the arrow (Figure 6) and tensions the thread, and then retreats. In tensioning the thread, the finger also functions to prevent fouling of the thread by moving it out of the path of the needle 10 as it ascends.

The upper needle bar having grasped the needle 10 ascends its full stroke and then descends slightly forming a. loop in the thread. The front of the loop is then engaged by the looper nger |51, which sweeps across from a position to the right of the needle 10 (Figures 8, 9 and 10) and pulls the thread over its roller |58 to a position shown in Figure 10. The travel oi the looper nger is such that it will pull sufcient thread and thereby prevent the formation of over-tight stitches. Roller |58 allows the thread to slide over it with a minimum amount of friction when the looper finger |51 is pulling the thread through the work. Finger |59, which is mounted at the opposite side of the needle bar 55 with respect to looper arm |56, advances substantially simultaneously with the arm |56 from the position shown in Figure 8, engages the rear 'portion of the looped thread and carries it to the position shown in Figure 10. As a result of its movement, finger |59 removes much of the danger of the thread being cut or otherwise fouled by the needle, and due to the fact that it makes a kink in the thread adjacent the needle the thread will have less tendency to slide through the eye of the needle, as the needle is moved downwardly through the work. 'I'his will effect the formation of more uniform stitches. In a like manner the disposition of the thread to one side by the finger |59 prevents fraying of the thread in passing through the eye 1| of the needle.

The material feed |35 now advances the work the length of one stitch, and the tension finger 242 acts to displace the thread from the path of the descending needle 19 and thereby prevents the thread from being fouled as the needle forms its stitch, and before it is again grasped by the lower needle bar 56. Shortly before the upper needle bar 55 descends, the gripper mechanism 250-252 retreats to its down position and in doing so leaves the free end F of the thread held in the slot'l 212 of member 248 out of the path of the thread puller |81.

Referring to the modification shown in Figure 16, the general operation of the feed arm |28 is the same as hereinabove described. Mechanism has been provided, however, which makes it possible to adjust it for controlling the length of the normal stitching and make long or shorter stitches as the case may be according to the requirements with respect to the particular work being sewed. As an example, in sewing the sides 'of the fingers of gloves the normal stitch length is generally used for the major portion of each glove. However. when the operative proposes to Samoan sew the tip portion `of the fingers, the normal stitch may be found to .be too long for .satisfactory work, and hence 'I have provided 'means to shorten the stitch. At this time, :the operator depresses a foot pedal which through .con- `nections to be described presently, changes the 'position of the sitch control member .|2:| to produce shorter stitches for sewing the .linger tip portion of the glove. When the sewing .of the tip portion is completed, the operators foot is released from the pedal and normal .stitching will be resumed.

An varm Stil (Figure 16) 4is clamped "to member .|2il and at its lower end supports a :forked head 33| and a head 3D2 connected by means .of 1a rod 3533 to an arm 3M 'fixed on `a pivot shaft 365. An arm 30G, also iixed on shaft 3.05, is actuated by a link Zilli .connected to a foot pedal .3dS mounted on a pivot SL09. The forked head Sill carries an adjustable link 3|!! which at its .other end is provided with lnurled nuts '3| and 3.|.2 which are turnahly and slidably mounted in .an aperture 3|3 of a holder 3;!4 secured in a ysuitable manner tothe frame of the machine.

arm 3613 and its other end secured to a stationary. .part of the machine (notshown) normally tends to hold the shoulder (H8 of nut .31| inlengagement with holder Biffi. rIlhe 'knurled Vnut 3r|2 governs the length of the short stitch. 'Ihat is, with the foot pedal 333 depressed the :rod 383 vwill move arm Stat and consequently change the position .of member iti by vvarying the throw of lever arm itil which controls the horizontal .distance traveled by bar |23. The movement of arm causes link 3|@ to remove the shoulder l 3HE oi' nut 3M from holder 3M and advance :nut 3|.2 until its shoulder 3|@ abuts the .other end of holder tilt thus halting further movement of arm Member |25 .retains this position until the foot pedal 363 is released, whereupon spring i' Sil restores the device to its lformer position. 11, will se .apparent that the greater the ydii-stance between shoulder 3H) and the end yof the fholder L3M, the greater will be the movement of arm tilt to set member |2l, which consequently re suits in shorter stitches.

Referring to Figures 17 and V18, another modied stitch control device is shown in which alternate short and long stitches are automatically produced for decorative work. Accordingy to this embodiment, a driven sprocket 32E! on a sha-ift 31H imparts motion to Ithe eccentric lll and cam itil to actuate the material feed arm iil in the san-ie manner as show-n in Figures d l'. viat arid drives a gear 323 and its attached gear T523 loosely mounted on stud l2 la, while the gear i2/i in turn drives a gear .325 and a cam 326 loosely mounted on shaft 32|. In this manner, the gearing 322, 3 3125 at one-haii the speed of cam '||0. Cam 326 engages a cam roller 32:1 carried by a cam lever mounted on shaft |21. Lever .32.8 is Aadjustably attached to an arm 329, .clamped on `shaft |2l oy a thumb screw 330.. The lower.

A gear 3122, fixed on shaft 321|, meshes` 23, 324 and 325'drives the caroy ill) .portion ofvarm .3 29 is yprovided-rwt-h :an elongated slot 33| adapted to engage Athu-mb screw .330. By loosening the thumb screw 133,0, .the :arm `329 may be .moved and in so Adoing shift the Jposition of slot |20 of shaft |2,-| resulting in more or less movement `of arm |28l as `heretofore -mentioned.

Thecam 32,6 has a highportion 332 and a lower -portion 333, the surface v332 `being considerably bnger than `333 and therefore when it engages follower 3.2.1 it holds zthe slotted rhead of .stitch control member |20 in a position ,to produce :a long stitch, as the follower 32?! rides :ol surface 332 and approaches surface 33, the slotted head of member |20 is turned .to a position gto Aproduce a short stitch. The continuous rocking of the slotted head results in alternate long and ,short stitching of the work.

The invention above described may 'be 'varied in -construction within the scope vof the claims, for the particular device, selected :to illustrate the invention, is but 4one of many possible ooncrete embodiments of the same. It is not,ther.e fore, to be restricted to the vprecise details of i the structure shown anddescribed.

What is claimed is:

l. In a sewing machine `of .the class described, the combination with a pair of 4alternately operating needle bars, of a rneedle, means for alternately connecting the needle with each bar and projecting a .th-read having a Xed and Aa loose end through the material .to be seWed, thread gripping means, means .mounting ,said gripping means adjacent one of said bars, and ;means .operative when said needle vis held zby said. last- .named bar for gripping the thread againstmovement relative to said yneedle .at the `:conclusion of each stitching operation.

2. In a sewing machine, .a needle, :needle hars for moving said needle with .fa thread iba-ving a iixed and a free end in opposite directions Vthrough work to 'be sewed, mechanism adjacent to and operating in conjunction iwith one -oi said bars for gripping the thread adjacent 4said needle, auxiliary gripping means coacting 'with said mechanism, and means for `releasing .the .thread vin said mechanism while said auxiliary means hold said thread gripped.

3. In a sewing machine needle *bars for moving a needle with a thread having a vfixed and a free end in opposite directions through Work to be sewed, mechanism operating :in conjunction with one of said hars for tensioning said rthread at the conclusion of va sewing operation, a device coacting with said mechanism -for `gripping said thread,'means for releasing the thread in said mechanism, means for simultaneously moving said device and said `last-namedba-r as said needle advances .towards said work, va thread trap, and means for releasing the thread from said ydevice and transferring it to saidtrap. y

"through work to 'be sewed, mechanism operating in conjunction therewith for gripping .the thread at the conclusion of a vsewing operation, -a `thread trap, means for moving 4said mechanism .and one v of lsaid bars simultaneously towards the work, and

means for `freeing said thread from said mechanism and transferring it to said trap.

5. .In a sewing machine of .the under-and over type, a needle, opposed reciprocating needle bars, means `for alternately connecting said needle with said bars for yprojecting'Said needle with athread having a fixed and a free end through work to be sewed, thread grippers, means for moving said grippers cyclically into gripping engagement with a portion of said thread for holding the xed end of said thread against tension, and means for pulling the loose end of the thread through the work while the xed end is so held.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle, and means for moving said needle having a thread with a fixed and a free end back and forth through work to be sewed, of means engaging and gripping a portion of said thread to hold said xed end against excess tension, auxiliary gripping means coacting with said rst-named gripping means to grip another portion of said thread, and a puller for pulling the free end of the thread through the work while the thread is so gripped.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with alternately operating needle bars, of a needle, means for connecting said needle with said bars for projection with a thread having a xed and a free end through Work to be sewed, clamp means positioned adjacent one of said bars and acting in conjunction therewith yfor clamping a portion of said thread including the xed end of said thread, a thread puller for pulling the free end of said thread through the work, auxiliary means coacting with said clamp means for holding a portion of said thread, and means positioned to receive the free end `of said thread as it is pulled through said work.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle and opposed needle bars, of means lfor alternately connecting said needle with said bars and projecting said needle with a thread having a fixed and a loose end through work to be sewed, a drum located adjacent one of said bars, a puller device cooperating therewith to pull the free end of the thread through the -work and lay it on said drum, thread gripping means adjacent one of said bars, and means operating one of said gripping means cyclically to grip and hold Isaid xed end of said thread to 'limit the amount of tension on said thread during the operation oi said puller. i

9. The method of forming a series of under and over type stitches, comprising moving a double pointed needle, with an eye located between said points and threaded with a thread having a fixed and a loose end, back and forth through the work to be stitched, including gripping the thread adjacent the needle after its movement through the work, pulling the free end through the work while it is so gripped, releasing the gripped thread,

moving said thread out of the path of travel of said needle, projecting said needle through said work, drawing said thread part way through the work, tensioning said thread, pulling a suicient quantity of thread through the work to provide suicient thread for the stitch thus made, and releasing said tension, and again projecting said needle through the work.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle, a pair of opposed reciprocating needle bars, and means for alternately transferring the needle with a thread having a xed and a loose end from one needle bar to another through work to be sewed, of a puller for pulling the free end of the thread through the work, means for moving said puller, means for holding the fixed end of the thread against excess tension while the puller is pulling the thread through the work,

,a thread receiving member having a thread receiving surface positioned to receive the loose end of said thread as it is pulled through the work by said puller, and means positioned adjacent said member for holding the loose end of the thread on said surface.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle, a pair of opposed reciprocating needle bars, means for alternately transferring the' needle with a thread having a fixed and a loose end from one needle bar to another through work to be sewed, of a puller for pulling the free end of the thread through the work, means for holding the fixed end of the thread against excess tension while the puller is pulling the thread through the work, a drum positioned to receive the loose end of said thread, a belt encircling a substantial portion of the periphery of said drum and holding the loose end of the thread on the periphery thereof, and a device for controlling the movement of said thread on Said drum.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination lwith a needle, a pair of opposed reciprocating needle bars, means for alternately transferring the needle with a thread having a fixed and a loose end from one needle bar to another through work to be sewed, of a puller for pulling the free end of the thread through the work, means for holding the fixed end of the thread against excess tension while the puller is pulling the thread through the work, a drum positioned to receive the loose end of said thread, a belt encircling a. substantial portion of the periphery of said drum and holding the loose end of the thread on the periphery thereof, a device for controlling the movement of said thread on said drum, said device comprising a brush located adjacent said drum, and arranged to engage said thread as it is being drawn from said drum.

13. In a short thread sewing machine, a pair of alternately operating needle bars, a needle, means for alternately connecting said needle with said bars to project a thread back and forth through work to be stitched, means operating in conjunction with one of said bars for tensioning the thread, a drum, a thread puller operating while said thread is tensioned for pulling it through the work and winding it on said drum, and a thread brake coacting with said drum to control the movement of the thread from said drum.

14. In a sewing machine of the class described, the combination with a needle, of a pair of opposed needle bars, a Worlr` support and means for feeding work along said support, of means for alternately operating said needle bars to grip said needle having a thread with a fixed and a free end for projecting it through the work to be sewed, means for clamping said thread at the conclusion of a stroke of said needle, a drum mounted on one side of said support, a thread puller mounted for movement concentric with said drum, means for moving said puller to seize said thread and lay it about said drum, and a.

belt arranged about a substantial portion of the periphery of said drum beneath which said puller travels for holding the loose portion of the thread upon said drum.

l5. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle, and a pair of opposed alternately operating needle bars, of means for alternately connecting the needle with each bar for projection through work to be stitched, said needle having a thread with a iixed and a free end, means for clamping the thread at the conclusion of a movement of said bars, a thread receiving membei', a. thread. puller for pullingl the freevend of. the thread throughfthe work While the other end bf said thread is clamped and disposing said a Work support and means for feeding the work.

over said support, of opposed needle barsmounted on opposite sides of said support, a needle,

and means for alternately vconnecting said needle tor said bars for projection with a thread having a Xed and a loose end through said work, means for minimizing the tension onthe xed end of the thread at the conclusion of ther movement. of said bars, a thread puller for pulling the loose end of the thread through the work, a drum, guide means on said drum for disposing the thread in proper position thereon, and means movable into and out of engagementl with said thread for tensioning said thread as it is being pulled from said drum during the next stitching operation.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, and means for feeding the work over said support, of opposed needle bars mounted on opposite sides of said support, a needle, and means for alternately connecting said needle to said bars for projection with a thread having a xed and` a free end through the work, means movable into and outA of engagement with said thread for minimizing the tension on the iixed end of the thread at the conclusion of each movement of said bars, a thread puller for pulling the loose end of the thread through the work, a device for receiving and guiding said thread as it is pulled through said work by said' puller and means coacting with said device for controlling the movement. of said thread from said device.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support and opposed alternately operating needle bars located on opposite sidesv of said support, ofv a needle, means for alternately connecting said needle with said barsv for projecting it with a thread having a fixed and a loose end through work to be sewed,` and thread displacing devices on opposite sides. of said support and located adjacent each of said ba-rs, and mechanism for operating each of said devices alternately prior to the movemen-t of they bar holding, the needle for moving the thread out of the path of movement of said needle.

19.. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle and means for projectingsaid needle and a thread back and forth through work to be stitched, of grippers for clamping and tensioning said thread. against movement. relative to said needle, andv means located adjacent said gripa needle, means for moving said needle with a thread having a fixed and a free end in opposite directions through work to be sewed, mechanism operating in conjunction with said means for gripping said thread adjacent said needle, means for pulling the free end of said thread through said work while it is so gripped, auxiliary means cooperating with said mechanism to grip said thread, means for causing said mechanism to release said thread, and means for moving the thread out of the path of the needle prior to its movement in an opposite direction.

22. In a sewing machine of the class described, a needle, means for moving said needle with a thread having a fixed and a free end in opposite directions through work to be sewed, mechanism operating in conjunction with said means for gripping said thread between said work and said needle, means for pulling the free end ofl said thread through said work while said thread is so gripped, auxiliary means cooperating with said mechanism to grip said thread, means for causing said mechanism to release said thread, means for moving the thread out of the path of the needle prior to its movement through the work for projection with a thread lhaving a fixedy and a loose end through said work, a drum located adjacent said support, a thread puller for pulling the free end of the thread through the work and disposing it about the periphery of said drum, means for applying tension. -to said xed end of said thread during the operation of said puller, and means mounted onV opposite sides of said support for alternately moving the thread out of the path of movement of the needle.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination with ay pair of opposed alternately operating needle bars, a needle, a work support, and means for feeding work along said support, of means for alternately connecting said needle with each bar for projection with a thread having a xed and a loose end through said work, al drum located adjacent said support, a thread puller movable about the periphery of said drum for pulling the free endv of said thread through the work and disposing it about said drum, means for applying limited tension to said thread during the operation of said puller, and devices mounted on both sides of said support for moving ther thread out of the path of movement of said needle, said devices comprising intermittently operated fingers, and means for moving said fingers in timed relation with the movements of said needle.

. 25. In a sewing machine of the class described, the comb-inationwith av needle, a pair of opposed needle bars, a work support, and meansfor feedingwork along said support, of means for alternately operating said needle bars to grip said needle having a thread with a fixed and a loose end and project it back and forth through the work, means located at one side of said support for tensioning said thread, a thread support `positioned adjacent said tensioning means, a thread puller for pulling the free endof said thread through said work while it is so tensioned, and

laying it upon said thread support, and a member movable between said tensioning means and work support for dsplacing saidV thread out of the path of movement of said needle at the start of each alternate stroke of said needle.

26. In a sewing machine of the class described, the combination with a needle and a pair of opposed needle bars, of means for alternately operating said needle bars to grip said needle with a thread having axed and a free end for projecting said needle back and forth through the work to be sewed, of means for clamping the thread at the conclusion of alternate movements of said needle, a thread puller operating in conjunction with said clamping means for pulling the free end of the thread through the work while it is clamped, a drum positioned to receive said thread as it is pulled through the Work by said puller, and means positioned about said drum for holding said loose thread thereon as said ".1

puller disposes it thereabout, said means comprising a yieldably mounted belt arranged circumferentially 4about the major portion of said drum.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with a pair of alternately operating needle bars, of a needle, a work support, means to alternately connect the needle with each bar for projecting it with a thread having a fixed and a free end through said support, means to move the thread out of the path of said needle prior to the stitching operations thereof, a drum located adjacent said support, a flexible element arranged peripherally about a substantial portion of said drum. and means moving between said element and the periphery of said drum for pulling the free end of the thread through the work and depositing it about said drum beneath said element.

28. In a sewing machine of the class described, the combination with a work support, and means for feeding work to be sewed along said support, of a needle, a pair of alternately operating needle bars for projecting said needle and a thread having a loose and a fixed end back and forth through said work, thread gripping means located on one side of said support for gripping said thread on one movement of said needle through said work, looping mechanism on the other side of said support for pulling a part of the thread through the work, and means acting in conjunc- "f tion with said mechanism for tensioning said thread.

29. In a sewing machine of the class described, the combination with a needle and a pair of` opposed alternately moving needle bars, of means for alternately connecting the needle with each bar for projection through the work to be stitched, said needle being provided with an eye between l its ends and a thread having a xed and a free end, means for clamping the thread at the conclusion of one stroke ofsaid needle and one of said bars, a thread puller for pulling the free end of said thread through the work while it is so clamped, means for releasing the thread at the conclusion of the pulling operation, means for moving the thread out of the path of said needle prior to its movement in the opposite direction, means for moving said needle through the workin the opposite direction, a looper for pulling said thread on one side of said needle after said movement, a finger arranged to engage said thread on the other side of said needle, and means for advancing the work during the alternate movements of said needle bars.

30. A sewing machine of the class described comprising, a pair of spaced reciprocating needle bars, a needle, means to connect the needle alternately with each bar for projection through the work, a thread looper movably mounted adjacent one of said needle bars and arranged to engage the thread on one side of the needle in said bar, a tensioning finger cooperating with said looper to engage said thread on the opposite side of said needle, and means foi` moving said looper into engagement with said thread in advance of the movement of said finger into engagement with another portion of said thread on said opposite side of said needle.

31. In a sewing machine, a plurality of thread gripping members, and mechanism for operating each of said members in succession to grip and tension a thread and prevent movement thereof relative to a needle, a thread puller for pulling a loose end of said thread through work being -sewed While said thread is gripped by one of said members, said mechanism including means for opening one of said members to release said thread when said thread puller has pulled the loose end of said thread through said work, and means for operating the other of said gripping members to displace the thread laterally out of the path of said needle, and a drum about which said loose thread is placed by said thread puller,

32. A sewing machine of the class described, comprising a pair of spaced reciprocating needle bars, a needle, means to connect the needle alternately with each bar for projection back and forth through the work, a thread looper movably mounted adjacent one of said needle bars, a thread guide roller mounted on said looper for engaging said thread, and a thread tensioning finger movably mounted on the opposite side of said last-named bar cooperating with said looper.

33. In a short thread sewing machine having a needle, and means for projecting said needle and a thread having a fixed portion and a loose end through work to be stitched, a thread receiving device comprisingl a plurality of spaced surfaces, a thread puller for` pulling said thread, and means for laying the loose end of said thread on one surface while part of .the fixed portion is being disposed upon another surface.

34. In a sewing machine, the combination with means including needle bars for projecting a needle with a thread having a fixed and a free end through work to be sewed, of means for tensioning the thread on both sides of the work, a puller associated with said needle projecting means for pulling the loose end of the thread through the work, and means for moving said puller in timed relation to the movement of said bars.

. 35. In a short thread sewing machine having a needle and means for projecting said needle and a thread having a fixed and a free end through work to be stitched, the combination with a thread receiving device provided with a plumeans for moving said thread puller to lay one portion of said thread temporarily on one of said surfaces, and a member for guiding another portion of said thread onto another of said surfaces.

36. In a short thread sewing machine having a needle and means for projecting said needle and a thread having a fixed and a free end through work to be stitched, the combination with a thread receiving device provided with a plurality of spaced surfaces, of a thread puller, means for moving said thread puller to lay one portion of said 'thread temporarily on one of said surfaces,

a member for guiding another portion of said thread onto another of said surfaces, and means for subsequently moving said thread laterally to position it out of the range of action of said thread puller.

37. In a sewing machine, the combination with opposed needle bars for projecting a threaded needle back and forth through workto be sewed, a device located adjacent one of said bars for gripping the thread and holding it against movement relative to said needle, and another means acting in conjunction therewith for gripping said thread along another portion of its length, means .for opening said device to release said thread, means for moving said gripping means to displace said thread laterally with respect to the path of movement of said needle, and means for moving said needle bars in timed relation with the movement of said gripping means to project the needle and thread through the work.

38. In a sewing machine, a drum member constructed and arranged to receive a thread laid about its periphery, said drum being provided with a split rim, one portion of which is furnished with a groove and a member associated with said drum and forming therewith a second guide groove whereby it guides the thread on its movement along the drum.

39. In a sewing machine for successively passing a double pointed needle with a thread receiving eye through the work from one side thereof to the other, the combination with opposed needle bars reciprocab-le toward and away from each other each having needle jaws adapted to grip a point of said needle, actuating means for said bars and jaws for successively passing the needle and a portion of the thread passing through the needle eye through the work from one side to the other a thread puller for entering the loop formed by the needle in pulling the thread through the work and pulling one end of the thread free of the work, and a gripper ar' ranged to grip a portion of the thread between the last stitch and said puller during the operation of the latter in order to prevent any tension on the stitch as a result of the operation of the puller.

40. In a sewing machine for successively passing a double pointed needle with a thread receiving eye through the work from one side there'- of to the other, the combination with opposed needle bars reciprocable toward and away from each other, each having needle jaws adapted to grip a point of said needle, actuating means for said bars and jaws for successively passing the needle and a portion of the thread passing through the needle eye throughthe work from one side to the other, a thread puller for entering the loop formed by the needle in pulling the thread through the work and pulling one end of the thread free of the work, a gripper arranged to grip a portion of the thread between the last stitch and said puller during the operation of the latter in order to prevent any vtension on the stitch as a result of the operation of the puller, a tensioning device having a thread engaging portion, and means causing said portion to pull on the length of the thread between the last stitch and said gripper with a predetermined tension.

4l. In a sewing machine for successively passing a doublepointed needle with a thread receiving eye through the work from one side thereof to the other, the combination with opposed needle bars reciprocable toward and away from each other, each having needle jaws adapted to grip a point of said needle, actuating means for said bars and jaws for successively passing the needle and a portion of the thread passing through the needle eye through the work from one side to the other, a thread puller for entering the loop formed by the needle .in pulling the thread through the work and lpulling one end of the thread free of the work, a gripper arranged to grip a portion of the thread between the last stitch and said puller during the operation of the latter in order to prevent any tension on the stitch as a result of the operationof the puller, a tensioning device having a thread engaging portion, means causing said portion to pull on the length of the thread between the last stitch and said gripper with a predetermined tension, means coacting with said device for varying said tension.

CARL W. JOHNSON. 

